Finally got the work done on Reel Fun, plus some upgrades

Having absolutely no idea what I was doing when I purchased my first sail boat, it became apparent that there were many things I was going to have to do to get her back up and running.

Issues that needed to be addressed before I put her back in the water:

• Running lights don't work
• Interior light doesn't work
• Electrical panel has seen better days
• Port windows leak and have cracks and broken frames
• Forward port hatch is in rough shape and plexiglass is about to fall out
• Bulkheads were rotted from leaking chainplates
• All deck hardware needs to be re-bedded

I can do most of this myself with my 1 good arm as my left shoulder is still healing. I tried to bribe a few people with beer, but schedules didn't work out so I had to get creative in keeping the topside hardware in place while I unscrewed the nuts from below.

I traced the old window on to some craft paper to make a template. I then expanded it by 3/4" all around to create room for the 3M tape. These windows will be held on by this tape with no screws.

Cutting the new portlights with a jigsaw

New vs old. You can see the 3M tape on the inside of the new portlight

Old portlight

New portlights look much nicer and more modern

This was a major pain to get the topside screws to stay stationary while i unscrewed the nut from inside the boat. Here I have a ratchet tied to the bow pulpit. All through hull bolts were re-bedded using butyl tape. I countersunk all holes to give a better sealing effect.

The boat was still getting some water leaks after I re-sealed all the deck hardware. I found that the water would collect around the rub rail of the boat and then found its way through the deck. The old sealant was rotted out and missing in many places.

Old caulking. I removed all of this and then put in 3M 4200 sealant

Rat's next behind the old circuit panel

Getting the new panel ready

All circuits work again!

Replaced the old, broken interior light with a new LED set

Added a small block for the outhaul

New teak bulkheads with sanded/scraped and painted chainplate mount

New gooseneck, the old one was half way

The old boom vang was in rough shape

New Harken blocks = more better

Precision 18 upgrades

I added a few things to make it easier to handle Reel Fun. I believe the year after my model, they added the blocks to lead the halyard to the cockpit. I copied this so I could raise the main without leaving the cockpit. I also added a "Tiller Tamer" to keep the tiller from flopping over if I let go of it or needed to go to the mast for any reasons.

The Porta Potti was added in case I had anyone on board who couldn't pee over the side :) Hopefully it won't see much use.

Single handed mast raising system

Realizing that I will be raising and lowering the mast by myself, I had to find an easy way to do this. I did some searching online and saw some ideas at the Trailer Sailor forum, which I have put into this handy creation.

The winch is from Harbor Freight and has a wireless key fob control which makes it easy to control while standing at the mast. I fabricated a wooden mount for it and the power wires run back to the battery.

I wish I had taken more pictures of it in action.

To raise the mast:

1. Main halyard shackle is secured to a cleat on the side of the mast
2. Mast is placed into tabernacle
3. Winch is released to place winch hook around the tabernacle area
4. Halyard is pulled tight and a bowline knot is tied and attached to the hook
5. I stand at the mast and start bringing the winch in little by little. 
6. Inspect that the turnbuckles aren't twisted and shrouds and backstay aren't kinked
7. Slowly raise the mast all the way, guiding it by had until the shroud tension takes over
8. Step forward and bolt the roller furling to its attachment point at the bow

To lower the mast:

1. Main halyard shackle is secured to a cleat on the side of the mast
2. Winch hook is released by about a foot
3. Bowline is tied in the other end of halyard and placed on winch hook. Tension should be high because this will add as a forestay.
4. Roller furling is unbolted.
5. Mast is slowly lowered by letting out the winch. Stand by the mast to make sure it doesn't fall to either side once enough tension is off the shrouds

Finishing up construction. The remote key fob is to the right of the hook roller mount

This bolts to the bow pulpit

One of the motor mounting bolts prevents this from sliding off the bow pulpit